URWERK UR-220 All Black – Monochrome Watches

This summer season, URWERK launched the final word model of the long-lasting UR-210. Luckily it didn’t take too prolonged sooner than the mannequin launched a successor of this staggering magnificence, and to my discount, I can say it’s as a minimum just about pretty much as good making an attempt and stealthy as a result of the marvellous UR-210. That successor was the model new UR-220 Falcon Problem, which obtained right here in a carbon clad case. Within the current day, some 5 weeks after that first new UR-220, it’s time for another one. One different one in black, albeit in a barely completely completely different shade of black… let’s have a greater check out the UR-220 All Black.

Of all URWERK’s creations, the UR-210 was the favourite amongst group MONO. Merging the difficult mechanisms of the UR-201, UR-202 and UR-203, and their extending and retracting hour hand, with the mannequin’s ‘trademark’ satellite tv for pc television for laptop time indication, created a particularly difficult interpretation of the satellite tv for pc television for laptop hour indication. It’s kind of mind-boggling to see it ‘in movement’ and likewise you merely want to keep up making an attempt.

That’s almost certainly why the UR-210, in all its iterations, has on a regular basis impressed us to utilize loads of superlatives when describing it. Notably the steel mannequin, which moreover obtained right here on a steel bracelet and was baptized the Full Metallic Jacket, obtained us over ensuing on this ravingly enthusiastic consider. Nonetheless the question arises whether or not or not the few important changes between the UR-210 and the model new UR-220 may change our ideas. All through Geneva Watch Days, we had the possibility to fiddle a bit with the model new UR-220 Falcon Problem and to be reliable, I really feel it’s even increased than the UR-210. Proper right here’s why…

Prime, thickness… points that matter.

The UR-210 had an automatic movement and that’s actually shopper nice. Even when you like winding your manual-winding watch every morning – certain, many watch collectors take pleasure in this morning ritual – there’s such an ease of use to an automatic watch that is easy. Nonetheless there’s one factor else. An automatic watch, or actually its movement, is wound by a winding mass and a set of gears, a clutch, pins and is derived, so that you just don’t have to do this operation manually. Nonetheless all this takes up home, which interprets proper right into a thicker movement that has to go well with contained within the watch case. Now that new UR-220 comes with a manually wound movement, the scarcity of a winding mechanism immediately reduces the watch’s thickness from a reasonably hefty 17.8mm (UR-210) to a very acceptable 14.8mm. And that makes an entire of a distinction on the wrist!

Dimensions and weight

The case type and proportions, other than the thickness, have not modified the least bit. This means it nonetheless measures 43.8mm huge and 53.6mm from prime to bottom. The case is produced from titanium and steel and solely differs from the carbon mannequin inside the supplies used and weight. The carbon mannequin weighs 25% decrease than the model new All Black mannequin with its titanium and steel case. The utilization of steel as an alternative of carbon gives solely a bit further heft on the wrist and it’s a definite shade of black; for the rest, these two are comparable.

“The UR-220 is above all a pure improvement from our UR-210 model,” explains Martin Frei, the designer of URWERK’s watches and co-founder of the company. “It meant the dying of the UR-210 so that it may presumably be resurrected in a model new guise. The variations are delicate nonetheless noticeable to the practised eye.”

Instrument panel and additional

The UR-20X fashions featured turbines, which have been seen through sapphire apertures inside the caseback. The UR-210 featured a selector for adjusting how the watch winds: no winding, medium winding or optimum winding. This attribute was meant to protect the movement in the midst of the numerous train ranges of the person sporting the watch. All very futuristic choices. On the model new UR-220, these capabilities are gone… Nonetheless one different, maybe rather more useful function has resurfaced! And that’s URWERK’s oil change indicator!

Initially launched inside the UR-110 fashions, this function has been improved over time. This indicator tells you methods prolonged the movement has been working and when it is time to refresh the oils. It reveals the number of months the movement has been engaged on two side-by-side rollers. If you buy the watch, the rely is activated by eradicating a locking pin and pressing the button on the once more of the watch. When the rollers current that the movement has been working for 39 months, it’s time to have the watch serviced. And thru service, the counter could be reset to zero and the locking pin could be modified.

Felix Baumgartner, URWERK’s completely different co-founder locations the idea into context: “It’s larger than solely a numerical counter, nonetheless an additional connection alongside together with your watch. The oil change indicator is witness to the time your watch has spent in your wrist. It’s moreover a visible file of the vitality you can have put into the movement by winding it recurrently.”

Whatever the daring look of the UR-220 (and actually every URWERK) the attention to aspect is unbelievable. This goes extra than utilizing ‘troublesome’ alloys because of they’ve increased friction properties or increased weight, and it goes extra than merely the appears of a watch. Martin Frei, the designer, designed a model new typography for the hours and minutes, and, individually, this as soon as extra raises the UR-220 a notch larger than its predecessor. Now we’ve seen the All Black and the Carbon mannequin, every in a definite shade of black, I’m very curious to see what variety of further shades of black are potential.

Additional data at www.urwerk.com